This post was originally written for The Stand with tips from our very own Eric Hauck.
You’ve read the headline a dozen times—choose your haircut based on your face shape. But if there’s one thing our stylists know, it’s that there’s no one comprehensive haircut that fits each face shape. Instead, it’s all about choosing a look that fits your style, your hair type, and your styling preferences. For advice on how to take face shape into account during a haircut, here are some tips and tricks that he uses in his own practice.
It’s all about the hair
While I definitely pay attention to the client’s face shape, I also consider other factors such as hair texture, hair density, growth pattern, and most importantly their personal style and styling ability. You want to ensure that at the end, it doesn’t look like the haircut is wearing them.
The right tricks are key
An attentive stylist will pay attention to face shape, but won’t let it completely dictate a person’s look. For example, when cutting hair for women with wider faces, a lot of stylists will shy away from straight across bangs. They often forget that there are many cutting tricks to do this while still making the face appear narrower.
Break some rules
There are always things you can do to tailor a haircut to fit a person. While there are some rules, you can always get around them. For example, if you have extremely thick hair and want a bob, you could either undercut it or take weight out. The possibilities are endless. While I was working in NYC, I had a client who was always looking to experiment. We would change her look all the time, and most importantly we didn’t dictate any of her cuts based on any set rules. While there are inherently certain things you want to avoid, I go by the motto that rules are meant to be broken.
Knowing what works is half the battle
Before I start a cut, I always ask myself if it will complete my client’s look and if the haircut make sense. I keep in mind their styling abilities and preferences so I can give them a style that they’ll truly love, whether they’re in my chair or back at home.